How To Keep Petunias Full And Flowering

Each petunia flower has its own stem (calyx). The flower grows out of the center, surrounded by the sepals – the daisy-like leaves.

When the flower fades, a seed pod begins to form in the center of the sepals (shown in the picture).

The calyx (stem) should be removed before the seed pod starts to form in the center of the sepals by cutting it off at the main stem. A seed pod as small as the one shown is not detrimental to the plant because it has just begun to form.

Only removing the dead flower will not stop the formation of the seed pod. The sepal (daisy-like leaves) must be removed because this is where the seed pod forms.

Close to the base of the plant, look for where the last petunia bloomed and the new leaf node is forming.

This is where you will cut the stem and the calyx off.

You will sacrifice new blooms in this process, but it is necessary in order to keep the plant blooming continuously.

Use sharp scissors or pruners. You want to make a sharp cut across the end of the stems.

Petunias leave a sticky residue behind which will easily wash off from hands and tools.

After the stem is cut, the leaf node left behind will grow new buds and stems.

Remove more older stems in random locations around the plant so they can start making new buds.

As you repeat this process, the plant will always be successively blooming and forming new buds and stems.

How To Rejuvenate Petunias

Sometimes we let our petunias go too long between deadheading and they get “leggy”. This term is commonly used to describe a plant with long stems that have few blooms and the plant has lost its compact shape.

We may also choose to prune petunias about two weeks before a party or family gathering so they are in full bloom just in time for arrival of guests.

Fortunately, healthy petunia respond well to severe pruning and will rejuvenate with new buds. Pruning requires that most of the flowers be removed and you could be without flowers for about 1-2 weeks.

Before pruning , it’s very important that your petunia plants are healthy. Pruning requires the plant to expend energy to create new leaves, buds and stems. A severely water-logged petunia can have a hard time rejuvenating new growth. If the soil is dry, water first and allow plants to perk up before pruning.

Shown is a row of petunias that have gotten “leggy”.

This row is going to be severely pruned so that it can “start over” and then be regularly maintained by deadheading the rest of the season.

Use sharp scissors or pruners. Petunias leave a sticky residue behind which will easily wash off from hands and tools. Pruning requires touching many more stems than deadheading, so your fingers can get very sticky. You may choose to wear disposable gloves for this process.

The plant to the left shows where the stems were cut just above a leaf node close to the base of the plant. Stems with buds and flowers need to be sacrificed to do this.

You can save the cut petunias in a vase and often mature buds will bloom after the stem is cut.

Here are the petunias after they have been pruned and lightly watered.

The pruning process is different than on-going deadheading because pruning severely cuts the stems off across the entire plant.

Pruning removes most or all flowers, so there will be a time that you will be without blooms.

Keep well watered and blooms will return in about one and a half to two weeks.

The petunias are now in full bloom two weeks later, displaying the red white and blue pattern they were meant to.

Now diligent deadheading will keep them mounded and blooming.